This article first appeared in The Edge Financial Daily, on February 3, 2016.

NOT all stouts are created equal, as even an amateur can attest. At the Connor’s Appreciation Night at Saujana Hotel & Resort, Shah Alam, the British brew was at its versatile best, showcasing its sophisticated yet youthful flavour across an extensive Asian and Western pairing menu as well as a range of cocktails. 

This is Connor’s Stout Porter as you have never seen it before — revitalised, and noticeably so. The foundation of its distinct flavours can be traced back to a recipe from the 1700s, adapted to suit the modern palate. A recent image rejuvenation succeeded in capturing the market’s attention, which Carlsberg Malaysia managing director Henrik Juel Andersen is only too happy to quantify. “Since its re-launch, distribution and sales doubled in just eight months,” he said, adding that they were only poised to increase this year.

Andersen credits the appeal to the draught’s palatable aroma and balanced taste, which juxtaposes a malty flavour with roasted undertones. A creamy head gives way to a balance of bitterness, crispness and robustness, then rounded off with a chocolate-like twist that particularly entices the younger appreciator. Its drinkability carries it well, whether as an easy after-work drink or a preferred companion for a long night out. 

Coaxing out the versatility of the brew were Senja’s award-winning chef Ryan Arboleda and World Class Cocktail gold medallist mixologist Jerald Tsen. Arboleda was responsible for 11 striking dishes made even more noteworthy when pitched against the refinement of Connor’s Stout Porter. The classic British bites were a hit, such as crumbed goujons — stout battered strips of fish inspired by traditional English fish and chips — and the braised beef pie featuring succulent chunks of beef braised with stout for five hours and served with truffle mash, broccoli crisps and jus. The latter was especially redolent when savoured with the stout, transporting guests to a mild, bustling day in London when the surrounding flurry has rescinded in the face of such a familiar, nostalgic pairing. Cream and malt provide an apt finish for the hearty red meat, matching it in vigour and rich texture.

When paired with the Asian cuisine, however, the buoyancy of the stout’s recipe comes to play against the likes of fresh prawn spring rolls with sweet-and-sour Nham Jim dipping sauce and the marinated barbeque grouper with cold Vietnamese slaw. Though it potentially runs the risk of overwhelming the lighter flavours of the seafood, Connor’s instead, holds back with its crispness coming to the fore. The pairing is ideal as a bar snack.

Other items on the menu include the fluffy Asian-style smoked salmon choux pastry, slow-braised duck rillettes bruschetta, featuring shredded hearty duck on a fresh baguette, and crisp lamb cigars with contrasting sweet pea puree, parsley sponge and mint gel. 

Dessert is a delightful platter of bombolinis, tiny Italian-style doughnuts filled with Connor’s infused custard, Madagascar Cremeux Verrine topped with lime coconut panna cotta and a scoop of rich Connor’s ice-cream that goes down a treat. 

Mixologist Tsen was given free rein in crafting four cocktail recipes and experimented liberally. Cuban Connor’s was served as an aperitif, featuring stout shaken with a generous portion of dark rum and vanilla syrup. It proved a good opening drink, intriguing in its contrast of light and dark flavours. The Zesty Connor’s that followed delivered a needed zing with fresh lime and brown sugar, playing on the toasted maltiness of the stout. Coffee Connor’s was a full-bodied mix of coffee liqueur and hazelnut syrup that held its own against the main courses. Finally, dessert cocktail Connor’s Shot swirled stout with Irish whiskey and Irish cream for a velvety finish. 

The event aimed to showcase the versatility of the reinterpreted and succeeded in spades, if the exponential increase in volume of chatter was anything to go by as the night progressed. The 70-odd guests, mostly trade partners, lingered long after the dishes were cleared, always the sign of a good time. The social lubricant responsible for some of the fluidity of the night, Connor’s was undoubtedly the star of the event, whether drawn from the tap or served at the cocktail stations across the space. It stood its ground with assurance, asserting itself as an ideal stand alone drink or companion for pub grub or fine cuisine.